Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Each amplifier is hand-built using carefully selected components and traditional construction methods. This approach allows for consistency, serviceability, and long-term use.

Magnatone amps are used across blues, country, jazz, rock, and modern studio work. Their balanced voicing allows them to adapt without forcing a specific style. They hold together well in both clean and driven settings.

Magnatone vibrato shifts pitch instead of volume. This creates movement within the note rather than a pulsing effect, adding depth and dimension. It’s one of the defining characteristics of the Magnatone sound.

Magnatone amplifiers are built in small numbers with a focus on tone, response, and long-term reliability. They are known for true pitch-shifting vibrato and a clear, balanced voice that gives notes more depth and separation. The result is an amp that feels connected to the player rather than overly processed.

Magnatone amps are built for players who care about feel, clarity, and control. They are used by working musicians, studio players, and anyone looking for a responsive platform. The goal is to support the player, not shape them.

A number of things can cause unusual noises to be heard through your amplifier. Please refer to this list of problems and possible cures:

1. Clicking/buzzing sounds. Try placing your cell phone in another room separate from your amplifier and see if the sound disappears. Other devices such as police radios can cause this. Wait a day to see if the sound returns.
2. Static, popping, or ringing. This is most commonly a preamp tube. Try replacing the preamp tube physically closest to the input jack. This is the first stage preamp tube that is most susceptible to static and microphonics (ringing). If this does not cure the problem, try replacing each preamp tube one by one until the problem disappears. You may also try tapping on each preamp tube with your fingernail or end of a pencil to check for microphonics.
3. Humming. Maybe your amp forgot the words, or this may be caused by a number of things:

A. Amplifier plugged into the same circuit as a device with a motor, such as a refrigerator or air conditioning unit. Try moving amplifier to another part of the house and see if the hum disappears.

B. Faulty power tube. If this is suspected, please have amplifier looked at by a qualified technician.

C. Faulty reverb wire. Make sure reverb wires are well secured to both the jacks on the chassis and on the reverb pan.

D. Fluorescent lights. Turn off all fluorescent or neon lights.

If none of the above solved the problem, please contact us through tech support email, or refer to a qualified technician.

This is usually caused by one of three things: The reverb tube, the reverb pan, or the wires that connect the pan to the amplifier chassis. First make sure the wires are properly connected to the chassis and the reverb pan. Next, you can try replacing the reverb tube. Please refer to the owner’s manual for the location of this tube. Finally you may try removing the reverb pan from the black bag at the bottom of the amplifier. Check inside of pan to see if there is a broken wire from the RCA jack to the small transducer by the springs. If none of this solves the problem and you’re handy with an ohmmeter, you may check for readings across the two jacks with no wires connected to the pan. You should read about 2 ohms across the input jack and about 200 ohms across the output jack. If there is no reading, that transducer is open and the pan must be replaced.

Both, depending on the collection. Traditional models lean toward American-style clarity, while Master models have more midrange presence and push. Together they cover a wide range without losing identity.

Tremolo changes volume, creating a pulse. Vibrato changes pitch, moving the note slightly sharp and flat around center. Magnatone produces true pitch-shifting vibrato, creating depth and motion instead of a rhythmic effect.

They are very pedal-friendly. The amps maintain clarity and don’t collapse under gain or time-based effects. This makes them easy to build around.

Power tubes need to be biased by a qualified technician when replaced. Our only model which is exempt from this rule is the Varsity Reverb, which is cathode biased. A matched set of power tubes still needs to be used, however.

Preamp tubes do not require biasing, although please make sure to use the correct type tube in each socket as we use as many as three different model preamp tubes in our amplifiers.

This will depend on how often and how hard the amp is played.  Power tubes will be replaced more often than preamp tubes. Frequent use may require the power tubes to be replaced every two years, and preamp tubes  about every four years. You may not notice gradual changes in the sound over time from tubes wearing out. A fresh set of tubes usually brings an amp back to life when you start noticing the amp doesn’t sound quite right or it seems something has changed.

No. The inputs of the Twilighter Stereo and Panoramic Stereo amplifiers are mono. Input 1 is high sensitivity and Input 2 is low sensitivity. The mono signal passes through the internal stereo vibrato effect and only the vibrato effect is output as a stereo signal.

No, the output of each power amplifier must have a speaker load. Removing the two power tubes from one side of the amplifier will alter the bias of the remaining two power tubes and potentially cause a failure. Any of these two actions would void the warranty.

Yes, but you must use two attenuators with our stereo amplifiers, one inline with each speaker.

Not necessarily. If one power tube fails in one of our stereo amplifiers, and the tubes have not seen excessive use, you may only need to replace the two tubes from the side of the amp that experienced the tube failure. There are two independent internal bias controls in our stereo amplifiers. Please refer to a qualified technician to perform this procedure as it is common for a screen grid resistor on the tube socket to burn open to take the faulty tube out of the circuit to protect the output transformer. Also, there are possibly lethal voltages present inside of the amplifier, even if the amplifier is turned off and unplugged.

If your amplifier can still power up, but is not working properly, you may first check our FAQs under “Faults and Troubleshooting” to see if you can find a solution to the problem you are experiencing. You may next try contacting us through our tech support email to see if we may assist in repairing the problem.  

If your amp cannot power up, or is completely unusable even if powered up, you may contact the dealer where you purchased the amplifier for assistance, or you may ship the amplifier back to our factory in Saint Louis, MO. Please refer to our warranty policy for details or contact us through our tech support email.

Please refer to our most current Warranty to Original Purchaser posted under the Service and Warranty tab to determine if the problem you are experiencing is covered under our warranty policy.

If you can’t find an answer in our FAQs, you may contact us through our tech support email for help troubleshooting the problem, or to get instructions how to send your amplifier back to our factory and estimated cost of repair.  If you purchased your amplifier from one of our authorized dealers, they may have a local source for repair.

Please refer to our most current Warranty to Original Purchaser posted under the Service and Warranty tab to determine if the problem you are experiencing is covered under our warranty policy.